What's the (wheel) deal?

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What's the (wheel) deal?

Postby I'm going to GL » Fri Aug 29, 2008 2:15 am

So, I've got this CX wheel here and assuming it would bolt up to my GL, I began the process of inspection and cleaning.

Image

I noticed that it does not say 'DO NOT DISASSEMBLE' just like the front (only) on my GL. I want to remove the rusty hub cover in order to to strip and refinish it properly and then noticed the lock pins in the threads (GL has standard lock nuts).
SO, I checked the CX FSM to see if it's ok to remove the through-bolts.

The manual does not show this cover being removed for bearing service so whats the deal oh smart ones? :?

I really don't think I should remove the bolts, but how is one to properly remove the rust and refinish this cover with the bolts in the way? Do you guys hand sand and mask? 000 steel wool will not clean this up like it did on the spokes.

Also, is this supposed to be chrome on the spokes?
It looks/feels like some type of pebble grain finish, but also resembles crappy chrome that was pitted at one time and then cleaned up. I recall seeing LRCXed's retina burner bike with this type of wheel but don't remember if it was mint chrome or a different wheel with (polished) aluminum spokes rather than the steel spokes on this wheel.

Whats the deal?
I'm going to GL
 

Re: What's the (wheel) deal?

Postby <7468.html?mode=viewprofile&u=53">LRCXed » Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:12 am

Hi Gl,
Do NOT take the nuts and bolts off. I think they added the warning after someone probably did it and had a problem after they did, so they added the notice on the wheel.

The spokes are plated with chrome, after they did the rough texture with steel shot beading to add the texture. I used a polishing wheel on the die grinder or a high speed drill to freshen up the finish on my spokes. Then protect them with a good chrome polish.

The center cover can be cleaned up the same way, but if you want to, steel wool are a 3M red scuff pad will clean it up before you paint it with a good quality engine paint like DupliColor engine enamel. Of coarse you will have to tape it off before you paint it. I used the aluminum colored paint.
"If I need to have someone do something for me, why shouldn't I learn to do it myself"
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Re: What's the (wheel) deal?

Postby I'm going to GL » Fri Aug 29, 2008 5:40 am

Thanks for straightening that out for me.

And just to clarify, do you mean they did chrome at first, and then on later models, they starting doing the shot blast finish?

Please don't tell me you got the shot blast finish to look like shiny chrome again!! :o
I'm going to GL
 

Re: What's the (wheel) deal?

Postby <7468.html?mode=viewprofile&u=53">LRCXed » Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:24 pm

On the standard and deluxe model they used steel spokes. The texture was done before they chrome plated them.

No, I didn't polish them out that much. But I did polish the center plate. I think it adds a lot to the wheels look. I just polished over the texture to clean them up.

Image
"If I need to have someone do something for me, why shouldn't I learn to do it myself"
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Re: What's the (wheel) deal?

Postby I'm going to GL » Sat Aug 30, 2008 2:07 am

Holy mackerel! I think I just popped an eyeball!! :o

Ok, there's no getting around the texture then, it's under the chrome - I gotcha.

So how did you manage to polish the rim without making the spokes too shiny where they are riveted on? Did you tape over the spokes so you wouldn't hit them with the buff or did it not affect the spokes at all? Using mini buffs from Caswell?

And jeez, I never thought of polishing the cover, I assumed it was steel!


DANG that thing is sweeeeeeet!!!
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Re: What's the (wheel) deal?

Postby tntchitwood » Sat Aug 30, 2008 2:42 am

I hate to nit pic an unquestionably outstanding job on your wheels, but isn't that yellow dot on the tire supposed to be lined up with the valve stem?
Tom
1982 GL 500 silverthing
2002 shadow pre chop
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Re: What's the (wheel) deal?

Postby <7468.html?mode=viewprofile&u=53">LRCXed » Sat Aug 30, 2008 5:11 am

I just buffed it without taping it up. Yes, small buffing wheels around the end of the spokes, and lots of sanding. The chrome held up while I was doing it so it was not necessary to tape them up.

The center is steel. I sprayed it with clear when I was done to protect against rust.

TOM:
I was wondering what that was for! But that's the first time I have ever heard of that. I'll look into it. Probably to lete now though. I have about 2000 miles on it in that location. What would the difference be anyway?
"If I need to have someone do something for me, why shouldn't I learn to do it myself"
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Re: What's the (wheel) deal?

Postby <367b.html?mode=viewprofile&u=54">Blindstitch2002 » Sat Aug 30, 2008 3:57 pm

I have some black paint and some yellow. We can just erase that dot and put a new one one. As long as you make sure the valve stem is in the rim. That's all you need to know.
1979 Honda Cx500 Custom Supertanker
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Re: What's the (wheel) deal?

Postby tntchitwood » Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:57 pm

The yellow dot marks the LIGHTEST part of the TIRE. The valve stem is the heaviest part of the rim.............Therefore, you put the lightest part of the tire on the heaviest part of the rim to cancel out the weight differences. But if you do not have any shimmy or anything, I would not worry about it.
Tom
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2002 shadow pre chop
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