CX500 GL500 650 Global

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 11:52 am 
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Location: southern spain
well shep,and you guys,had a real good day yesterday,up before dawn,down to the marina for the usual coffee fix
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then on to work with a list in my head of the jobs that i was going to do on my bike.
strip off fairing,fan,rad...flush the cooling system,adjust oil pump chain[thanks to our aussie friends]clean sump pick up.new oil and filter,replace all o-rings...
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clean and lube side stand,tired of getting 3rd burns on my leg :(
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lubed,speedo,tach,and clutch cables,clean area under the seat and tank,checking all torque values,and electrical connections
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fit crash guards,gonna have to cut the lower fairing a bit,but,oh well.there needed.
cleaned outside of the carbs and lubed all workings.cleaned battery term.and topped up.
i must have the only30 year old bike that uses more distilled water topping up the battery than oil .lol :D
checked tyre pressures,greased speedo connection.
i was knackered at 7.pm,couple of beers on the way home.but i loved it.
even a gl needs a bit of TLC...LOL :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 1:35 pm 
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Location: Hull.Yorkshire.UK.2x1980 CX500ZABs:Citroen ZX TD(250,000 miles)
Good work.Remember paint is maintenance as well.When you get some down time(It's that part of the year that lasts around 6 months in the UK<grin>) I would de-corrode all the paint work and touch it up.They should have it over there but Loctite 7503 is an excellent treatment and primer base lightly sanded.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Loctite-Rust-Remedy-90ml-With-Free-P-P_W0QQitemZ130296283443QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint?hash=item1e56438133&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Do't forget to lube the Centre stand and side stand etc and again remove and treat rust areas.That are often gets over looked as does the underneath of the swinging arm and I have seen rotted ones because of lack of rust treatment and paint.
The swinging arms can be greases a little and adjusted/tightened.See manual.A nice looking and durable Satin black paint for Callipers/frames/Wheels etc is BBQ Aerosol paint.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Plasti-kote-400ml-Barbecue-Spray_W0QQitemZ260396805184QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Home_Garden_BBQ_s_Accessories_LE?hash=item3ca0dbec40&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

It is slow drying as it's synthetic but is pretty chemical resistant as well.I'm sure they will have it over there with the amount of BBQs everyone has :)

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 1:59 pm 
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thanks for the links and tips.
i have been looking over the parts that can rust,but the po looked after it pretty well[thank god].over here we dont get much need for salting the roads[grin] but i will keep an eye on it.
by the way,forgot to say.......i dint have a slow any more,im gona order some more for the rear wheel and my car.thanks :D :D

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:47 am 
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Location: Hull.Yorkshire.UK.2x1980 CX500ZABs:Citroen ZX TD(250,000 miles)
spanish bandit wrote:
thanks for the links and tips.
i have been looking over the parts that can rust,but the po looked after it pretty well[thank god].over here we dont get much need for salting the roads[grin] but i will keep an eye on it.
by the way,forgot to say.......i dint have a slow any more,im gona order some more for the rear wheel and my car.thanks :D :D


When I chat with my Riding pals they don't believe that I haven't had a puncture on my Motorcycles in 5 years using,"Slime".Or if I have I never knew about it :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 8:59 am 
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i know what you mean,its nice that its affordable and does what it claims to do :D
this morning,iv just finished bleeding the brake,changed both sides[fluids that is]..what was nice to see,also a reflection on the p.o.,there was hardly any diff. in the old/new fluids :D

here,s on for you...ok my bikes been off the road 4 two days,worked on as above.last night,took it home,felt funny,because hadnt ridden for 2 days.....the rpm jumped from 1000,that iv always had it set at to 1500.odd ?bear in mind i didnt touch the carbs,other than cleaned the exterior,with degreaser,then hot soapy water,lubed all the moving connections with hilti,s lube spray.
edit,for the last week iv been running 3cv petrol traetment.

thought,s ?? :roll: :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 12:31 pm 
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Location: Hull.Yorkshire.UK.2x1980 CX500ZABs:Citroen ZX TD(250,000 miles)
Could be developing a small air leak around the boots.You;ve had a lot of heat over there remember.Check their security.Also check the lock nut on the A pull throttle cable at the carb end.I've had it come lose and hold the revs up.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:44 pm 
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mmm.
it was so easy to check all connections,etc.with the tank and seat off.
nothing lose.
a question shep.with all due respect.[im still learning.lol :D ]
would an airleak occuring at the boots increase the revs by 500rpm,overnight.
the mixture would have become very lean[less fuel] less revs :roll:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 9:56 pm 
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Location: Hull.Yorkshire.UK.2x1980 CX500ZABs:Citroen ZX TD(250,000 miles)
It can go either way.A weaker mixture can increase revs and too rich a mixture can stall by choking.It depends on how the fuel to air ratio metering is actually being affected.
I could also be float heights allowing too much fuel through or even small perforations in the ACVs upsetting the mixture.Every carb setup can have it's own unique anomalies which is why I and other people can only really post guidelines and not absolute fixes.
For example balancing a set of carbs on my bike then transferring them to another and they may well be out,even if only a little because of differences.My CX500 has a lot of oomph with the Electric Fan,Harley 883s and ported heads(Inlet ports polished) so it's mixture has to be set per the bike.

As you know even in the Manual the 2.5 turns out from the carb body for the Idle mixture is only a ,"Starting" point and not an absolute.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:06 am 
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yep,i understand that now,thanks :D

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