CX500 GL500 650 Global

There is something clamped shut coming out of my right cylindar....what is it?
also... there is a small leak in the hose my fingers are on, its for the coolant, where can i find a replacement or how do i seal it?

Do you mean like this?



As for the pipe I think you will have to shop around.Car Scrapyard/boneyard and under some hoods/Bonnets(UK).You could use any rubber,plastic pipe so long as it has the correct internal diameter.Are you sure the pipe is not good.I had a leak on one and just chopped a bit off the end where it has split and made sure it has the small spring clamp on it.

yes, its in the bottom right of my picture. either way im having a much larger issue... I am getting a loss of power from one cylindar( i believe from flooding in my carb). I just checked the length of the floatand it is at 15.5mm. Everything is thoroughly cleaned. ive installed a new wireing harness and ignition coils so i dont think the problem is electrical. Im losing hope....please help

here are some pics:

The pipe that is clamped shut is where a breather hose connects. From what I can tell, this breather port on the cylinder head is only used on the CX500 engines. On the GL500 engines I've seen this breather port is closed off:



It's possible your engine and/or head originally came from a CX500. Is there a similar pinched pipe on the left side?

Is it sealed well where it is clamped shut or does it leak?

In the UK some of the early CXs had Metal breather pipes in the heads and they use a rubber pipe to a T-junction and then this went to the Air-box.Very messy affair.Then later the blanked heads and and extended 17mm Valve timing inspection cover at the rear of the engine like both my Cxs are.I had to blank off the head you see as it was from a spare engine but both my CX have the Extended Timing cover,



As for your right cylinder problem I assume you made the float heights correct for both parts of each float and not just the one in the picture.Both parts of the float have to be even.

Also have you tried re-grinding the Float needle valve using a bit of toothpaste?This is mentioned in my Haynes and I have done so in the past.

Also could still be electrical.Get a pair of snipe/narrow nosed pliers and with the engine running pull the plug cap off the plug slightly.Does the cylinder still fire?

Once the engine is running for about 10 minutes, the bike loses idle speed. Either heat or flooding causes the right cylindar to stop firing. Once it reaches this bog down mode, I can pull the right plug cap off and nothing happens, no drop in power. If I take the left one off, the bike shuts off.

heres a couple videos of the problem:




heres a video of before I changed the wiring harness and both coils:

Did you replace the plugs or plug wires or plug caps when you changed the coils?

I recently had a bad plug cap that caused the same symptom.

yes replaced, and troubleshooted them both.

We have to keep going at the troubleshooting.I've had this before but each time it was a combination of things.

Try this.Swap the coils.I don't mean just the small wires.I mean physically change the coils over on the frame and then plug the small wires into their opposite colours so they are correct for firing.If the problem changes side then we know it's electrical.If it doesn't we can look to the fuel supply however it could also mean a faulty CDI unit.

Dave I think can tell you the voltage that is supposed to be presented on the pink and yellow wires.

We need to determine if the problem is electrical or fuel related.

Start the bike and let it come up to temperature where the problem occurs. Slowly unplug the right plug cap and listen closely. Can you hear the snapping sound of an arc when the plug cap contact is almost touching the top of the plug?

Alternately, use a grounded screwdriver to see if you can draw an arc from the plug cap.

If there is spark, we will assume the problem is related to fuel delivery. Otherwise we will continue with electrical troubleshooting. By performing the tests in a careful, methodical manner the problem can certainly be found.

Shep, it's my understanding his bike is a GL500 with the TI ignition, not CDI.