CX500 GL500 650 Global

I am fitting new pistons and rings when the correct ones finally turn up, I know its important to remove the glaze from the cylinders to aid oil retention etc. Does anyone have any tips on Cylinder honing?

I have a 3 legged honer spring loaded with fine stones for the job. I do have an old block for practice

Thanks Roy

All I've ver done for,"Glaze blasting" is to polish the bores with metal polish.You seem to have better gear but I couldn't advize you on it's use but...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/cylinder-deglazing-help-53062.html

I'd say your on the right track by practicing, because it really boils down to proper technique. Drill speed, stroke distance and stroke speed are critical to achieving the proper 'crosshatch' pattern on the bores. It's takes practice to get a feel for it without going overboard (or maybe over-bored) .
This is one thing I have not mastered, but thankfully a pal of mine has, so I make him do it for me

It's been my understanding that the 'crosshatch' pattern should be adjusted to match the tension and type of rings you're using (plain cast iron, moly coated etc) in order to assure a quick and proper ring 'seating'. A bodged job could lead to less than ideal break-in, resulting in poor ring seal.

Here's another link with brief info and a close-up of the crosshatch pattern>

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0612em_cylinder_head_honing/photo_06.html

The grit of the stones is very important to a proper cross hatch pattern. But you need to have the bores checked to see if they are within specs before and after you do it. The BALL hone is the best for what your doing, and make sure you don't have a sharp ridge at the top. The extra thickness of the new rings can bang up against the ridge if you run it hard in the beginning and break the rings. If you DO need to have the ridge cut off, make sure it's done properly before you hone the cylinders so you don't have a problem. New pistons and rings will hold the ring edge higher and crash into the bottom of the worn ridge of the cylinder.

Check with your local machine shop to see what they recommend for the specific type of ring your installing. As mentioned earlier, cast, chrome molly, or a mix of the 2 types of rings, need different types of grit to finish the walls for a proper seat when they are broke in.

Thanks for the replies guys and the links, I found some good pics of cross hatched bores for references, My bores measured up well in spec suprisingly there was little wear. The rings how ever were badly worn.

I had a practise on a spare block as the stroke is so short it was hard at first to master the feed and speed.

I got rings and pistons from Honda thay are all in now and the engine has had a quick run 30 minutes. Just need to rebuild the rest of the bike then its a road test and a bit of running in ( breaking in)

Thank again Roy

Whenever I've put new rings in any of my engine builds I dump the oil and filter anywhere between 50 and a 150 miles and check and clean the sump and oil pump guaze filter.It's just thing with me.I don't want any metal particles or debris in a fresh built engine and with the oil pumps being old I service them as well and don't want ANY blocakdes.As I use only ever use cheap 10w40/15w40/20w50 mineral oil(Asda/Walamrt) it's of no great cost and as I can make my own gaskets that are better than shop bought that's not a bother either.

0.8mm/1.0mm gasket paper(Or imperial equiv)
Cheap set of Leather punches(Metric or Imperial) off ebay.
Melted down big fishing weight as a,"Last" to punch into.
Boot Black polish stick to mark parts to make template.