CX500 GL500 650 Global

Which fuse do you think is better Blade or Glass.

Blew a fuse today and I got to thinking. I stuck with the glass fuse and new fuse holder a few years ago because of the glass fuses under the handlebars. But for the main fuse do you prefer blade or glass and if you use a blade in the rear do you rewire blade under the handlebars?

Blindstitch2002 wrote:Which fuse do you think is better Blade or Glass.

Blew a fuse today and I got to thinking. I stuck with the glass fuse and new fuse holder a few years ago because of the glass fuses under the handlebars. But for the main fuse do you prefer blade or glass and if you use a blade in the rear do you rewire blade under the handlebars?

don,i did the mod.for bladed fuse just for the main 30 amp.have a spare fuse taped at the back of a side panel.
the ones on the bars,are clean,so i left them.
i think the fact that the glass ones on the bars sit at a horizontal plane,it helps

Blades are better and are more common to find in the shops these days.There's less to break/go wrong.I've just done a quick mod of one on a GL<grin> and just wire it across the old fuse screws as the original screws are good.This one even has an LED indicator that glows when the fuse had blown

It fits neatly in there and is easy to change the fuse,

Sheppola wrote:Blades are better and are more common to find in the shops these days.There's less to break/go wrong.I've just done a quick mod of one on a GL<grin> and just wire it across the old fuse screws as the original screws are good.This one even has an LED indicator that glows when the fuse had blown

It fits neatly in there and is easy to change the fuse,

still grining,wow??
what mod have you ever done[if any] to the glass fuses on the bars?

Never bothered.Not had any go or corrode yet.If they did I'm sure I'd come up with something.I don't think blades would be easy as there's not a lot of height in there.

But a quick look turned up these,

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=4+bl ... m270.l1313

Sheppola wrote:Never bothered.Not had any go or corrode yet.If they did I'm sure I'd come up with something.I don't think blades would be easy as there's not a lot of height in there.

But a quick look turned up these,

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=4+bl ... m270.l1313

i think that would work ok.
but,mine work fine,ill leave well alone me thinks

Prevention is always better than curing.Keep them clean and bright.Same with all electrical connections.Even WD40 type spray is better than nothing.Electrical Switch cleaner is best as it's supposed to leave a protective film.
People will spend hours doing routine maintenance on bikes/cars and then overlook the importance of maintenance on the electrics.Spend an evening just doing all the connections and then you won't have to touch them in most cases for say 5 years depending on the climate and usage and the most common breakdown call-outs from Automotive associations is with an electrical fault.

Hence,

http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl ... ctrics.htm