CX500 GL500 650 Global

Greetings, today I reassembled my 81 CX500 {CDI} with a rewound transistorised stator which is charging fine. I have fitted a Raymodule PSU to take care of the ignition duties. My problem now is that the bike will start and run for a short while and then dies. Could this be due to the fixed pulsers that are attached to this stator? Personally I think this is unlikely as I would not expect to lose both cylinders at once as obviously they are two separate components for two separate cylinders. I tested the Raymodule with a fairly lengthy test ride before pulling down the bike for this work so have no reason to suspect this item as it performed flawlessly. Orange to green test shows 114 ohms as does the light blue to green but these were showing 120 ohms when I limped home with a warm engine. Orange/red to green and light blue/red to green both show 96 ohms. The advance pulser is the same one as fitted before. I'm leaning toward a broken wire but at present is too late at night to run bike for any further diagnosis. Would greatly appreciate any suggestions or help that anybody has to offer.

Are you getting a good spark when warm?

What about fuel supply?As you have had the engine out to fit the stator have you disrupted or re-fitted something incorrectly?

If a Vacuum petcock check that,

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If an in-line fuel filter has been fitted check it's flow arrow is the correct way round.

Check for carb boot leaks.

O.K. Shep, Am heading out to the shed now to check these points and others. Have manual fuel tap though that I have already checked for flow and this is O.K.. Still suspect maybe a broken wire as had a broken kill switch wire when I assembled it about 8 months ago. Pulled left plug last night when I came back and this was sooty where my plugs normally have a good colour. This would not point to induction air leaks but will still check this just in case. What do you think of the likelyhood of it being a problem with the fixed pulsers?

It could be the fixed pulsars but they are pretty robust but it could be broken wire.It could also be a faulty advance and retard unit?

Set meter to 2000 ohms and test the harness blue wire to the frame and then the white to the frame at the small two bolck connector near the CDI unit.

Mine read White 360 ohms
Blue 450 ohms.

PS

Have you replaced the plug caps?

First up Shep, the blue and white wire tests have become irrelevent on my bike due to having the later model stator without the CDI windings with ignition duties taken over by a Raymodule PSU.{ See Oz website if in doubt what this is} Anyway.... the problem has been traced to the new alternator being a little "overenthusiastic" about it's job now and overwhelming the regulator and also my spare reg.. Is there a heavier duty reg. that you can reccomend, perhaps from a Goldwing or similar? Or alternatively do you think it would do any harm to cut the power output by simply disconnecting one of the stator phases at the 3 pin plug? My GSX 250 had an alternator phase that only came on to power the headlights when they were turned on so it seems to me this may be reasonable to do..... bearing in mind I am something of an electrical moron.

I know about the Raymodule

I cannot speak for cutting one of the stator wires but I can say that Trev-H,a well known UK owner/poster,fitted the more powerful G8 stators with an Ignitech unit and has no problems with the stock Regulator/Rectifier.Is it possible the Raymodule is at fault?

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Also I'm led to believe that the Raymodule only takes care of the high voltage supply to the CDI unit,you still need the Advance and Retard unit to be working unlike the Ignitech unit which takes care of both.

The advance and retard unit can be tested at the unit but you need to drop or move the engine forward in reality to get the rear plate off.Then the resistance from each connector to the ground plate should be 185 ohms to 225 ohms.A little outside these is allowed but not much.

Howdy Shep. No I don't think the PSU is at fault as the bike runs well with the alternator disconnected at the 3 pin plug. Following a post from Rayman have decided to see what happens if I run 2 regulators. Will let you know whether or not this is successful. Thankyou. Oh, one thing, apparently the Raymodule will shut itself down at 15.5 volts or so as a self preservation measure.

Hmmmm.Two regulators.Not sure about that one.Are you saying that with the Stator disconnected and test ridden the problem is not there?

I'm not sure what voltage the Stock RRs shut off at but both my CXs even revved high never exceed 14.75v and at idle charge at 14.5v.

Gidday Shep {and other forum users} . Tried the 2 regulator trick today - didn't work. Funnily enough the original regulator seems to be playing the game now, holding the battery voltage at around 14.4 volts. Still having the same problem with the alternator connected though. Disconnect the alternator and the problem goes away,- perculiar. Anyhow, will be taking the bike to Rayman tomorrow and we'll see what someone with a fully functional brain makes of all this. I get the impression that he has a tweek to the PSU in mind, I put my faith in this man's expertise. Electricals are really not my thing once you get beyond the basics! Cheers, El Phreako

Problem now sorted. Turned out to be the PSU after all. Rayman is now modifying all units and I reccomend them highly. Shep, thankyou for your advice.