CX500 GL500 650 Global

I decided to start a new post since my other one got kinda long. I've finally gotten my new/old bike on the road and took her for a 40 mile ride today with a mix of backroad and interstate. I took her up to 70 mph at about 6500 RPM. Does that seem about right to y'all? Everything seems pretty sorted out now except for a few details I need to fix.
Now for the questions:
1) I know its a carb issue, but I'm not sure where to start and don't want to make things worse. At idle or steady throttle, it will just slightly surge. It hovers around 1100-1200 at idle, but again its not completely steady. Air leak? If so, I know I can use starter fluid or wd40 to test, but how exactly do I do that?

2) I have to spray it with some degreaser and rinse it off again, but I think the front cover's seeping oil, it looked a little wet on both sides. If it is seeping, could I have tightened it too much or not enough? Or, could it just need some time to seat? Should I go back when it cools down and re-tighten all the bolts?

3) My front brake isn't making the brake light show. The rear brake works and all the rest of the lights, signals, and the horn all work. I just replaced the brake switch on the brake lever back in June, could the switch have gone bad that quickly? Before I go buy another switch, what tests can I do to find the problem?

4) Last question, I promise...my front brake squeals off and on. Its not a constant noise, it will come and go. I notice it at lower speeds, under 30. Other than checking the torque on the brake post bolts, what else can I try? I know the shim is in along with the top plate that tensions the pads.

1:Spray the inflammable fluid around the carb boots with the engine at idle.If possibe keep a small fire extinguisher handy.Not usually needed but you never know.I have a small one I keep in the boot of my car which I use.

If the engine speeds up or the speed changes then you have an air-leak.

2: Most likley needs a new gasket.Good time to clean sump and oil pump filter.

3:Check the distance of the small plunger in the Brake swtich.Sometimes they get sticky or are not meeting correctly.


4:Usually sticky brake piston and or uneven pads.Requires calipers off and the pistons moving out but not fuilly so they pop-out,degreasing,cleaning and I use a bit of metal polish to shine them up and then re-degrease and lubricate with clean brake fluid or oil.

Pads if in good state can be boiled up in a pan with some washing up liquid to boil contaminents.Dry off and then re-degrease.I then use some 500 wet and dry on a glass flat surface and re=flat them a bit.Also remove any ruscorrosion off the back of the pads the same way.

Thanks for the info again, Shep. I'll try the spray tomorrow, if there is a leak can I use liquid gasket to seal it? My front cover gasket is brand new, it was an OEM one I just put on. My clutch cover gasket I made myself out of 0.8mm gasket paper. If the OEM one is seeping oil, is it possible I just didn't tighten the bolts enough, or overtightened them? Or is it more likely I folded or ripped it during installation? It won't be to terrible if I have to take it all back off again, I have enough gasket paper to make 3 or 4 more new gaskets. It wasn't leaking enough to even drip, just a sheen on the block. I rebuilt the M/C and caliper, and put in a brand new piston back in June. I took the caliper off and check the pads, the outermost pad has a glazed section, the inner pad looked fine. I'm assuming the glazed part is what's making it squeal? The shim was bent, so I ordered a new one tonight, maybe it made the pad uneven? I did go and sand/boil the pads and put them back in without the shim. I took the brake light switch out and sprayed it with electronic cleaner, it seems to be working fine, the plunger moves easily and makes a small click when pushed in. Maybe its just a defective piece? Is there anything else I can check before paying for a new switch?

Yes always atake the glaze off pads.

I always use a very thin smear of Gasket sealer even with most new factory gaskets to allow for age and pitting on mating faces but wipe around after application to lessen the amount that may spread off and get picked up by the oil pump filter.

If you have a multimeter put it on the brake switch and see if it's working?You should have continuity when the plunger is out.

Well, I fixed the brake squeal, and figured out that the left carb had a leak which is now (I think) sealed. Brake switch must have imploded within, there's zero reading with the meter so I ordered a new one (only $12). I took it out for another ride today, for a total of about 70 miles on the new motor, and when I was looking it over when I got back I noticed there's a brown stain on the back, under the water pump. Is this coolant, and does this mean a leaking mech seal? I'm wicked dumb, never thought to replace it while it was out of the bike, my own fault. I guess I like to learn the hard way. So...does this mean an In-bike seal replacement? Is this something critical, as in "DONT RIDE WITHOUT FIXING" type thing?

Another thought, could I just take the water pump cover off my old engine and replace the current cover?

Do a few more miles in the bike as it could just be some slurry.You will know if it's a proper Mech seal failure as it will leak whatever colour coolant you have in.

They are a lot easier to repair than some people would have you think,

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I think you were right, Shep. I went another 60 miles today, the no sign of the stain when I got back. Mystery, must have been some left over gunk or something. The coolant level and oil level haven't changed, at least not yet, but there was smoke in the exhaust when I started it today. It went away fairly quickly, but that would be an indication of the pistons leaking?? I'll see if it continues as I drive it more, I've now been through a single tank of gas. Haven't done a compression check, I'll have to go buy a gauge here soon. If for no other reason just to satisfy my curiosity and learn more about my bike. I filled up today and will go through my next tank before getting worried about anything. With the deluxe tank (4.5 gal) what should I expect for mileage traveled before reserve?

What color smoke was it? White is smoke from oil, Black is from gas! It sounds like (if it was white) the valve guides are leaking. A good test for that is to ride at 35 to 40 MPH, or freeway speed, and let off the throttle completely for about 5 to 10 seconds. When you hit the gas again, look in the mirror or have another rider behind you to see if a puff of smoke comes out when you hit the gas. If it does, it's the valve guides and or seals.

On my 78 I got 48 mpg on my last trip. I have not gotten to reserve yet due to the need to refuel at the end of it. I WAS getting 130 miles before reserve before the carb rebuild. I am hoping it goes up now, but all my riding during the week is stop and go through the traffic lights. That causes it to get worse MPG.

It was white smoke, I'll try to volunteer my wife to help me and try that trick. I think I went about 120 before reserve, but that wasn't on a completely full tank. I should be able to get at least 30-40 miles on reserve, right?

I wouldn't worry too much for now.It can be just some coolant/moisture that got through into the exhaust.I've had that before when messing with the cooling system and as the exhaust gets hot it vapours off.Just check your RAD level after a few more miles as the Overflow bottle is no good for checking the real coolant level.

If you are unsure you can always do a compression test.