CX500 GL500 650 Global

Hi guys,

I have replaced the transmission in my engine & am ready to replace the rear cover so I am trying to confirm that the gears select correctly.

I have temporarily installed the gear lever & i can run through all the gears but sometimes the lever just doesn't seen to move the selecter cam quite far enough. This leaves the small sprung loaded round holder on the crest of a cam rather than in the dip.


When you crank the engine round a few times it seems to drop in so I presume it is just because the engine isn't running but the last thing I want is to rebuild if it's not right!

Can somebody please tell me if this is normal.

Also what is the direction of rotation when the engine is running - turning the crank shaft clockwise or anti from the nut on the front end?

Thanks.

You may have got the spacers wrong at the end of the gearbox small roller arm.Double check it all the mechanism.When correct the small roller arm selector wheel will move freely into the cut-outs it's meant to use.It should also be level.



There is a spacer under that bolt and spring that sets the correct height for the small arm/roller.

Here's the blow up,

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cx500a-1980england_model16465/partslist/E21.html


No 10(the one I'm on about) and No 15 must be correct.No 10 if IIRC the small end goes upwards.

Thanks Shep,

I'll go & check them now but I'm sure they're correct.

The round roller is nicely seated & perfectly in line with the cam, just seems the lifter arm doesn't turn the cam quite far enough for it to move into the next dip. Could this be just because it's not running or does it sound abnormal & so there is probably something amiss?

It was middle of last year I did my latest engine build and I'm trying to remember.What you can do is fit all the gear change parts(With the back off) and then put a 17mm socket on the front crank shaft end and turn the engine(Clock wise from the front) and use the gear lever to see if you can go up and down the gears correctly and back into and through neutral.

Note:There are also 3 thin thrust washers that must be used in the rear of the engine.

One either side of the small driven Starter gear(It's the one with the small pull out axle/rod) and one underneath the left hand side gear lever part that the gear lever slides onto(It has the splines on it).If these are missing it will make the starter engage badly and wear too quick and the one for the gear lever will make changing vague and again wear quick.

Yeah, I've had Dad running the crank handle!

The three washers are all there.

I worked out that it wasn't the travel on the shifter arm which moves the cam, it was the selector drum itself inside the unit then I remembered that both transmission units when they were out of the bike behaved the same. The shift drum would only turn so far then you had to spin the shafts to allow it to keep turning. I have confirmed this on the old one. Also from memory (when the bike is whole) if you try to change gears with the engine off it will only change one. Then you have to roll the bike a little to move the shafts so you can change again. On this basis I think it is functioning normaly - At least I hope so cos I just rebuilt it! (no bits left either!)

Thanks for your help. Still got a bit to do but should be pressing the button soon!

Two Tone Blue wrote:Yeah, I've had Dad running the crank handle!

The three washers are all there.

I worked out that it wasn't the travel on the shifter arm which moves the cam, it was the selector drum itself inside the unit then I remembered that both transmission units when they were out of the bike behaved the same. The shift drum would only turn so far then you had to spin the shafts to allow it to keep turning. I have confirmed this on the old one. Also from memory (when the bike is whole) if you try to change gears with the engine off it will only change one. Then you have to roll the bike a little to move the shafts so you can change again. On this basis I think it is functioning normaly - At least I hope so cos I just rebuilt it! (no bits left either!)

Thanks for your help. Still got a bit to do but should be pressing the button soon!

Remember the initial start up of a re-built engine is Important.When it fires up hold it at around 2,000/3,000 Rpm for at least 30 seconds.This will force the oil around the engine faster.You don't want to start it and let it sit at idle straight away.

Then you can leave it to run up to temp to open the thermostat(Use a light in the rad) and watch for the coolant flow.This will let you know the water pump is working ok and also bleed air out of the cooling system.This is my standard procedure after any coolant drop.

Nice tips - thanks.

Any more important ones like that - I'm all ears!

Also, any ideas on removing the fuel strainer? Is there a trick to it as mine is stuck tight & I can't get a grip on it to pull it out?

Two Tone Blue wrote:Nice tips - thanks.

Any more important ones like that - I'm all ears!

Also, any ideas on removing the fuel strainer? Is there a trick to it as mine is stuck tight & I can't get a grip on it to pull it out?

Those ruddy fuel strainers!!

PITA

I assume you mean the ones inside the tank?
Pair of tweezers or a bit of bent wire coat hanger and a can of frustration<grin>

I don't have them fitted now.I use in-line fuel filters.Way better but keep the pipe in the Petcock for needed reserve level.




http://www.toolparts.co.uk/acatalog/Fuel_Filters.html

2nd from the left in the 1st picture.Bought a few.

I also bought a length of their neoprene fuel pipe.It's the,"Dogs".Doesn't rot and the extra length I use for bleeding brakes into a jar with some old brake fluid in it(Always keep old brake fluid not just for this but it's a great paint stripper for small parts and can be used as a liquid de-coke).
6mm/ 1/4" £3.49 for a metre.

http://www.toolparts.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2etoolparts%2eco%2euk%2fcgi%2dbin%2fss000001%2epl%3fRANDOM%3dNETQUOTEVAR%253ARANDOM%26PAGE%3dSEARCH%26SS%3dfuel%2bpipe%26TB%3dA%26GB%3dA%26ACTION%3dSearch&WD=pipe&PREVQUERY=REFPAGE%3dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww%2etoolparts%2eco%2euk%252Facatalog%252Fsearch%2ehtml%26PREVQUERY%3dRANDOM%253DNETQUOTEVAR%25253ARANDOM%2526PAGE%253DSEARCH%2526SS%253Dfuel%252Bpipe%2526TB%253DA%2526GB%253DA%2526ACTION%253DSearch%26RANDOM%3dNETQUOTEVAR%253ARANDOM%26PAGE%3dSEARCH%26SS%3dpipe%26TB%3dA%26GB%3dA%26ACTION%3dSearch&PN=Fuel_Filters%2ehtml%23aPPB#aPPB

Also once the engine has been run up to temp and the cooling system bled let the engine cool down to,"Stone-Cold" and re-check Cylinder head bolts torque.
Do this again after around 50 miles and the again at 100/150 miles to be safe and then 500 miles.This may seem little over-the-top but it only has to be done correctly at this time and then you may not touch them again for god knows how long.
For example if nothing else failed on the engine and you do regular oil changes,tappet adjustment and cam chain adjustment I would expect the cam chain,if new,to give around 40,000+ miles.

Two Tone Blue wrote:Nice tips - thanks.

Any more important ones like that - I'm all ears!

Also, any ideas on removing the fuel strainer? Is there a trick to it as mine is stuck tight & I can't get a grip on it to pull it out?

I used a big fat screw,just turned it in a few threads,pull,bingo