CX500 GL500 650 Global

Well, Charles' website is down again so...

I'm really starting to like the little CX with one exception: the brakes (or lack of).
Maybe I'm just spoiled by modern bikes but this is just pathetic. The front bearly slows down the bike in duo and I have to use the rear brake a lot just to stop safely.
I disassembled and cleaned master and caliper, fresh fluid and the lever is nice and firm. Age of the pads is unknown but they are basically new, I scuffed them with 100 grit sandpaper before re-installing so they may need a little more mileage (30 miles so far) to seat properly.
Anyway, I'm afraid it still won't be enough so, did somebody successfuly upgrade the brakes? And, related question, will the front end of a GL650 with dual brakes and fork brace mount to a CX?

Thanks,

Daniel.

As my CXs are UK I'm not sure but on one of my CXs the PO must have not been able to find some CX forks so used some CB400n Superdream forks which are a straight swap on these bikes and apparantly was done quite ofetn in their life.Of course if you get a set of these forks you also get dual discs/rotors which gives much better braking but you will need the dual link part that goes under the Yoke that should come with the Forks otherwise don't buy/get them.

So if you have a Scrapyard/Boneyard you can look at you may fimd something there.
Note:When I fitted the CB900 calipers the only thing different I had to do was use the Caliper Banjo bolt that came with the CB900 calipers as the CX one was shorter or longer(Can't remember) but anyway I think you get my drift e.g keep all the bolts that come with the CB900/750 or 400n forks.

Other things to consider.

There are some other brake pads you can get that from EBC I think that are supposed to improve braking.

http://shop.wemoto.com/pictures/brakes/ad33.html

They are available in the UK for the CX,
http://shop.wemoto.com/index.dyn?oid=24939

HH type so there should be simlilar in the US.

Also on one of my CXs I have a pair of,"Power Blade" levers.These change the fulcrum point with a dog-leg in them.This makes clutch and brake lever pulling much easy and makes pulling more force on the Front brake easier so this helps as well(They are a joy to use actually.Much less Throttle hand/Front brake hand fatigue)

http://motorcycleproducts.co.uk/catalogue/front-brake-lever-honda-cx500-power-blade-p-23426.html

You may be able to find similar over there.

HTH

Thanks Shep. Unfortunately it looks like, once again, the american market did not deserve the dual brakes even on the CB400N.
I'll keep my eyes open though.
In the meanwhile I'm wondering if a dual piston caliper from a later CB900 could be made to fit?

I think someone has done that.It's a pity the search function is not working on Chopper's site as I think it would be under the Custom section.

I have to agree, they are not all that powerful in the stock form. But they do the job OK if your not trying to ride it like a rocket ship! I just did my sons bike and it seams to stop better than mine. I think my brake pads are not as good of quality as his. There is a difference. I can tell!
The one big sign is that my back brake chatters if I apply the brakes very lightly. They stop chattering if I apply them harder, but they squeal sometimes when I do. If I have just had the wheel off and have blown them out to clean the drum area of all the dust, they are fine for about 30 miles or so. When they get dusty they get the chatters and squeal.
So I think quality has a lot to do with what we end up with. Sheppola has some good links to quality pads and shoes. I think that would help a great deal!

One thing that might help the braking power is DOT 5 brake fluid. I have not used it in my bike, but I know it compresses less and gives greater pressure in the system. Every little bit helps. I'll have to get in the book, but I think they say DOT 3 in there. It should be compatable, but not when it's mixed with DOT 3. It has to be a clean system to use it.
Make sure your system is clear and free of all restrictions. Even front brake hoses have collapsed inside and caused low pressure conditions when a section of the hose breaks down and pluggs the small path that it has to pass the fluid through. I think a good braided hose would help the system a lot in the front. No hose expansion when you apply the brakes.

I've just checked and I've been using DOT 4 in mine.Never thought about it as it was cheap from the supermarket and was told it was better than DOT3.Seems to work.I've been using it for around 4 years now so must be ok

For now the lack of stopping power is actually good. My wife is learning to ride and she is less likely to lock up the front at low speed. But I will not let her get on the road until I can improve it...

If you can't convert to better brakes I'd go for some cintered pads and some Powerblade levers.Also correct braking technique.Many riders don't fully understand braking.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5251_brake-properly-motorcycle.html
http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-Safety/braking-tips.htm

It should be a combination of both under normal circumstances.Also setting off from stationary like lights
I use the UK police rider method called the,"Hendon Shuffle".

This means when both legs are on the road and you are about to set off you lift your left leg onto the gears as normal but you ready your right leg so as soon as you move you place it ready in the rear brake position.This gives you full control of braking if you have re=brake quicky but it should be adapted per user.

Also this will be good for the missus,

http://www.advancedridingtechniques.info/videos.htm

Note:
A good test of riding skills is a game I play on open roads with little or no traffic.I see how far I can go without using either brake but still maintaining normal legal speed limits.This means I have to anticipate everything and anticipation is the key word in safe riding.

UK police riders have to pass an advanced course whereby they are only allowed to use their brakes through a busy town situation I think once.If they use them 4 they fail.This is extreme training as it means they have to slow down to silly speeds before lights but is an indication of safety skills that can be learnt.

I always ride with the idea that some idiot is going to do something stupid like pull out on me or cut in so I try and allow for this and let my presence be known with my horn if I have to.

Did some more bleeding and riding today and it seems to have improved a bit. I'll give it a few more miles before replacing the pads...

EDIT: These are Honda factory pads...