3 more steps than a cx.
Courtesy of Abes_CW
1. Remove luggage and rear seat or trunk. There are two 10 mm bolts to be removed from inside the rear fender area, accessible only with the seat off.
Unlock your rear helmet/seat locks with the key and rotate the handles forward. This pic shows the handles almost to the release position.
Push them both forward, and the seat will release. Here is a pic of the mechanisms.
These are the bolts to remove, each side, 10 mm.
Removing these allows the back of the rear fender to pivot up and out of the way, giving clearance for the tire to be removed. Rob's site mentions losening rear drive bolts, this is not necessary if you do this.
Here I am lifting the fender. Note for the interstate, there is a cross bracket that goes from left to right that needs to be removed to allow the fender to pivot
That done, now we get to the wheel. You need to remove the brake actuator nut, and the brake holding arm (not technical terms, so sue me lol)
Note 14 mm
There should be a cotter pin on this, which you need to remove, and preferably replace. Don't ride without it (put a safety pin in or something if you have to). Mine was 13 mm. Weird size, may not be original.
Loosen the pinch bolt on the left side of the swing arm. No need to take it all the way out. 12mm
Remove nut from right side. 19mm
Drift out the axle from right side to left. Not location and orientation of spacer on the left side, between axle and hub.
you should now be able to pull, wriggle the axle free from the left side.
Note that the brake drum will now be free as well, a great time to check the condition of the shoes.
Here is the date code for my new tires. 3408 thirty fourth week of 2008. Fairly fresh tires. When getting new skins, check your code, if they are more than 2 years old, don't accept them.
You now will be able to wriggle out your rear tire/rim, lifting the fender to allow clearance.
When reinstalling, grease liberally the splines. But only on the wheel, not the hub. If you do the hub, you will get grease on the tire when you put the rim back in place. Trust me on this one lol. I did it wrong as the picture states. I greased both, thinking there can't be enough. Now I have to degrease my tire before I ride.
Re-installation is essentially a reversal of the above. I will note however, put the engine in gear. You will know for sure when the wheel and the hub splines engage. Don't forget your cotter pin on the brake holding arm.
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To prevent,"Crabbing" and rear brake squeal:
When tightening the bolts on a rear wheel that has been removed I slack off the bolts/nuts on the drive box,tighten all the rest and then tighten the drive box bolts last.I got this tip off the old Swedish CX board for making sure the rear wheel aligns.It has served me well as I've never had any rear end,"Crabbing".Shep
