CX500 GL500 650 Global

Is this even possible? I couldn't get a wrench or ratchet in there. The picture in the manual makes it look so easy...

If you mean the small usually 10mm hex head M6 bolts that allow you to drain the cooling jackets around the cylinder then yes you can get into them with the Fan still on but not with the Radiator on

They are often over looked when working on the heads for drainage.If they are nore removed you get a lot of coolant left when you take the heads off that is a PITA to keep out of the Cylinder head bolts holes etc.What job are do you need to do?

This topic is related to my 'bike stopped idling' thread on ChopperCharles' forum. I was following the manual instructions on pulling the thermostat, and it recommended to drain both the radiator and cylinders of coolant. The photo makes it look easy and obvious, but I had to look for a minute or two before I even found the cylinder drain bolt, and no effing way can I get to it without the radiator coming off.

The thermostat is indeed useless -- didn't open more than 1mm in boiling water. I'm getting a new one this afternoon if all goes well, same with the radiator cap.

The manual is wrong there as you have found out.You don't need to drain the cylinders just to change the thermostat.As I think I answered you on Chopper's site the thermos and rad caps are way cheaper from Auto parts store but you have to take the old ones in to match up.

Whilst you are there get some RTV or silicone gasket sealer.You can use this to secure/seal all the old o-rings in the thermo pipes and their knuckles and the thermo housing O=ring.There's nothing worse when doing this job to find you have a coolant leak from one of those pipes/knuckles after you have put it all together.
Then don't forget to Bleed the cooling system by topping up and leave to idle til you see the coolant flowss over the rad fins for a while and the metal coolant pipe gets properly warm.If all is well count yourself lucky because it wasn't a fault with the water-pump impellor

sheppola wrote:There's nothing worse when doing this job to find you have a coolant leak from one of those pipes/knuckles after you have put it all together.

Actually theres is: breaking the knuckle by tightening it over a non-OEM o-ring that's too thick. Don't ask me how I know (or how many I broke before I figured out the problem.)

R

sheppola wrote:If all is well count yourself lucky because it wasn't a fault with the water-pump impellor

All is not well.

I installed a brand-new thermostat, added coolant, started the bike and watched it idle until the temp gauge redlined. No coolant flowed into or out of the radiator. I guess I am screwed?

Well maybe not.Get the carbs off and get to the water pump cover.We might be lucky and it's just the Domed nut that holds the water pump impellor has come lose/away.If it's left the thread on the end of the cam shaft serviceable it might be fixable.Even if not find out the damage and post back.

What were all the symptoms in the beginning that made you go to the thermostat? You said it was in the STOPPED IDLING post! Was it due to heat? I didn't get to read that post on Choppers!

LRCXed wrote:What were all the symptoms in the beginning that made you go to the thermostat? You said it was in the STOPPED IDLING post! Was it due to heat? I didn't get to read that post on Choppers!

IIRC he had been for a ride and it started hitting the redline.Came home and it was still hitting it.When he checked the coolant flow there was none across the Radiator top fins so 1st stop change Themostat.This hasn't helped as per above so I know suspect the water pump/impellor.Could be a blocked side cooling tube but i've never heard of that on one of these but it's possible.Could also be a blocked Rad come to think of it.If it is then the old 50/50 white vinegar flush and hose pipe up the Rad(Ooooher)

LRCXed wrote:What were all the symptoms in the beginning that made you go to the thermostat? You said it was in the STOPPED IDLING post! Was it due to heat? I didn't get to read that post on Choppers!

I still don't know what the idle thing was all about -- I adjusted the idle set screw, and the problem hasn't returned. But as the bike was warming up after the idle adjustment, I went inside to get my helmet and put pants on and came back to a bike near overheating. Subsequent work has shown that coolant isn't circulating; my old thermostat tested bad but a new one didn't solve or even affect the problem.

I guess I will pull the carbs this weekend and look at that bolt Shep mentioned. I have a feeling the engine's coming out soon afterwards... perhaps I should order the materials for a triple bypass sooner rather than later. But the Amish Rally in like two weeks ain't looking good!