CX500 GL500 650 Global

Jeez, I thought three cats, two greyhounds and one boxer was zoo like, but looks like you guys take this to a whole new level! I would bet that your critters are probaly a lot easier to care for though, at least you don't have to take them out for their walk when it's 20 below!

Anyway, if we can get back to forking around, I have a few questions for you guys...

In the coming days I should have a interstate dual caliper set up here. Of course the stuff is used but other than one caliper possibly needing a rebuild (rt side), all should be OK. With the exception of the master, I should be getting everything in the hydraulics from banjo to banjo, including hoses and hose 'splitter'.

(By the way Blindstitch, I have switched to the new style master from EBAY. THANKS for the recommendation - it works AWESOME and was easy to set-up and bleed).

So, on to the fork and related questions:

Is the standard LEFT side rotor used on the RIGHT side for this dual set up? (I have a few of these)

Is the standard front wheel used for this set up?

Will I need special bolts to mount rotors? (Or grade 5 or 8 hardware store stuff of the proper dimension?)

If forks are completely overhauled at the time using the old matched springs or new progressives, can I use just the special RIGHT side fork lower tube from an interstate/dual brake model? (WHY do I ask? I can still by used fork set even if left fork is damaged - unlikely I know - just a thought).

THANKS

GL,
It appears on the parts listings, that the rotors are the same. You can compare every part here. http://www.mrcycles.com/default.asp It will even give you the proper bolt length and thread diameter.

As far as the wheel, I'm not sure, but I have seen 2 types of wheels. One has bolts that go all the way threw to the other side so it can adopt the dual disc, and the other only has bolts that thread into the rim on one side. If you have the threw bolt type, longer bolts from a good hardware store will work fine. I got some for my sons 80 Custom that we bought an 81 rim for, and they work fine. High grade should not be to important, as you are using 5 bolts to trap the rotors, and there won't be any flex to the system. High grade wouldn't hurt though if you can get them. Honda should be able to get them still.

As long as the fork tubes are the same diameter and length, you should be able to use just the lower body from the interstate. Again, just check the parts list from above to compare your different model parts your trying to interchange.

I have seen many bent fork tubes also. Check them on a flat surface when you get them apart to see if a tube is bent.

Hope this helps!
Larry

Thanks for the info, and sorry for not looking this stuff up myself .

I think I'm getting old...WisconsinCX recently gave me a link to a great honda parts site and for some reason I forgot about it.

I think I need a bookmark that reminds me that I have bookmarks!

No worries GL. That's what we are all here for. If we all remembered everything we ever saw or learned, we would not need each others minds and memories. Besides, some one else is reading the response to this and is taking note of it. It's all good.

where do all of you get your fork oil from? i have tried a few local auto parts stores and nothing. i guess i am going to have to go to a dealership to get this? i have to much compression and am bottoming out on stops.

http://www.bikebandit.com/product/A4213502

HTH

16floz(US) = 500ml.My CX forks take 135 cc/ml each.

Thanks Sheppola, i am going to try and find it locally instead of on line since i want to try and get this done in the next day or two. i imagine that one of the 3 cycle shops near me should carry fork oil. was hopping that there was a auto parts chain store with it.

Got the fork oil from a local cycle dealer, floor jack, assorted sockets, and about 2 hours and man is the ride different. i used 20wt, 1inch pvc unions( had to sand them down a hair since the were a bit tight. and ran it for about 2 miles. going to take it a longer run tomorrow when i can confirm i have no leaks. but definitively sounds harder than it actually was.

If all you can find is 15W, it's better than the original oil if you add the one inch spacer. I had trouble finding 20W also. Keep trying though, it's worth it.

I would never go back to ATF for the forks.One of my CX just has the standard two springs but 20w and the ride is absolutley secure and a joy to corner