CX500 GL500 650 Global

Seems I have the exact same issue that kingston 73 had with a leaky water pump cover. I've read all the posts from and in reply to kingston 73, as well as looked at Shep's Mech Seal replacement. Mine is an '82 CX500C. Couple of questions right off the bat:

1. Can I get this new seal from the Honda dealer?
Shep wrote: "You can use the cheaper Yamaha seals inner as well, Part No: 11H-12438-10"
I assume this is the Yamaha part no. I'd rather just get the Honda mechanical seal if it's available. I have the Clymer shop manual for my bike, but I see the words mechanical seal nowhere in there, no part listed, nor any instructions on how to do it.

which leads me to question #2...

2. I'm fine going by Shep's In Bike Mechanical Seal Replacement step-by-step instructions, but I was curious as to why the radiator needs to be removed for that. (This is the first of many questions on this, the rest to follow once I finally get the parts and the TIME [I have a 2 year old + a new one to be making an early July debut ] that I will need to get into this and do it properly)...

which leads me to question #3...

Aside from the seal itself, and of course my shop tools, exactly what other parts will I need to pick up in order to do this job?

I would appreciate any help.

Shep, you give me hope when you say you can do this job in 45 minutes... I know I'm looking at a great deal more time than that myself, but nonetheless it is encouraging!

You don't need to remove the Radiator to do the job but if the bike has not been serviced whilst you have had it it's a good time to take the Rad off and flush it out with a garden hose.Forward and back flush and or plug it up at both ends and pour a bottle of white vinegar in there and shake around and leave over-night.This will brake down calcium build ups and return the Rad to a good cooling state.
The Honda seal is way more expensive than the Yamaha seal but does pop-out easier.You have to be careful with the Yamaha seals as they use a bit more powerful silicone sealant in them.With both when you heat them up listen for the,"Sizzle" as the sealant gives and be very gentle pushing the Spring loaded inner part out.Patience,not force,is the key

If this is the 1st time you have done the job it will take a little longer but it's still much easier and safer than the official way which requires a full engine out which in itself can cause even more unneeded problems and damage.All my CX engines have been done this way and now countless others all around the world.Not one of them has failed TTBOMK.

Hey Shep! 2months - how's that for some delay in the relay?
Well, first off, my second daughter was born last week - happy, healthy, and beautiful!So that's where the time lag factors in...

2) I got the Yamaha mechanical seal

3) I just called the Honda dealer about a water pump cover gasket to replace when I do the job. Parts guy told me only an O-ring for that water pump cover. Is that correct? Do I need it?

4) Are there any other parts or supplies at all I will need (other than hand tools) to successfully do the job? (e.g. seals, gaskets, washers, etc.)

I want to say that I realize posts/replies every 2 mos. isn't good message board etiquette, but I truly am appreciative of the help and kindness!

Burnside wrote:Hey Shep! 2months - how's that for some delay in the relay?
Well, first off, my second daughter was born last week - happy, healthy, and beautiful!So that's where the time lag factors in...

2) I got the Yamaha mechanical seal

3) I just called the Honda dealer about a water pump cover gasket to replace when I do the job. Parts guy told me only an O-ring for that water pump cover. Is that correct? Do I need it?

4) Are there any other parts or supplies at all I will need (other than hand tools) to successfully do the job? (e.g. seals, gaskets, washers, etc.)

I want to say that I realize posts/replies every 2 mos. isn't good message board etiquette, but I truly am appreciative of the help and kindness!

No problem.I myself am sometimes away from easy Internet access for my own reasons.


Any how.If the original O-ring( it's a funny shaped one like the Water pump cover itself) is ok then it's re-usable.You can secure it with some Silicone gasket sealer/RTV.

Also there's a 10mm copper crush washer that goes under the domed locking nut.Check it's condition.These can be got from DIY stores sometimes in the plumbing section if needed.However they can be re-annealed using a gas flame off the cooker till cherry red or one of those Paint stripper butane torches.

Remember that this domed nut should only ever be torqued decent hand tight max of 9 Ftlbs.I use the knuckle of my Wrench and socket and also apply some Thread-lock before fitting.

My mech seal page address has changed to,

http://www.sheppola.karoo.net/mechseal.htm

Order of things.
Mech seal inner in place(Watch for the two aligning grooves when pressing in as the metal part of the Mech seal must align with them.
10 mm Thrust washer onto Cam shaft end.
Impeller assembly with Ceramic Polo mint inside it''s rubber boot onto cam shaft.Check at all stages presses in freely.
10 mm Copper Crush washer
10 mm M6 domed nut.

Apply some washing up liquid to the Polo mint face or the face of the new Mech seal or both.This allows it not to rub on start-up until the coolant lubricates it.A little Vaseline does a great job.

If in doubt just post