CX500 GL500 650 Global

Ok, think I got it now SB. Use the clamp to push the broomstick into the fork piston. I think Shep is right about the bolts corroding due to the flooding. Will let you know how I make out.

If that doesn't get I've had another idea.You would need a left hand threaded bolt the same thread/pitch as the bottom part.I think it's an M8 thread.You would have to get it welded to a rod then out it in down the tube if you get the idea.

bri-guy-ga wrote:Ok, think I got it now SB. Use the clamp to push the broomstick into the fork piston. I think Shep is right about the bolts corroding due to the flooding. Will let you know how I make out.

you got it mate,the force acting down on the threaded portion,can be a lot more using a cramp.then using an air wrench,rattle it out.
as shep rightly said,fill the last couple of inches with penetrating fluid,or even diesel.
good luck

Got those darn bolts out. Used a section of 1/2" re-bar and a 3' clamp. Coupled with a 18v Dewalt impact and they came out quickly. Wish I had thought of doing that earlier. Both forks are now rebuilt and in position. Might actually be able to fire it up in the next couple of weeks.

I read you post on CC's Bri.Glad you are getting there.I hope the big-end shells weren't corroded by the water damage.Have you had the engine fired up yet?

Yes Shep, had it running before I took it apart. No point spending all this time and money on a bike that don't run.

Thinking about it the shells will be fine as there would have been oil in the engine and unless left for years there should be no bottom end damage.I would run the oil for about 50 miles and change again though just in case any internal corrosion started.Oils is cheaper than engine wear
I use cheap supermarket 20w50 mineral for this.Over here I can get a gallon for 4.99 spondoliks .

I know that. Have already changed it once after having it run for 30 min or so. Pretty nasty. Will change it pretty frequently once I have it road worthy. Probably every 1-2 weeks.